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How To Photograph Waterfalls

October 29, 2009 Digital Photography Tips Comments
Lower Watson Falls

Lower Watson Falls

Photographing waterfalls can be both fun and rewarding. All it takes is mastering a few simple tricks and you’ll be capturing beautiful images in no time.This tutorial will focus on how to get that silky water effect and how to get the right balance of light to make your waterfall images have depth, saturated colors, and beautiful contrast.
 

 The key to getting a silky water effect is to use a slow shutter speed, all of the techniques described below revolve around this simple idea.

Step 1: Get the right equipment.
Required: wide angle zoom lens, polarizing filter, tripod.
Recommended: 2-stop neutral density filter, remote shutter release, telephoto zoom lens.
Waterfalls are usually found in heavily wooded areas and tight canyons, so most of the time a wide angle zoom lens will be necessary. A polarizing filter is beneficial for several reasons. It eliminates reflections on the water and rocks, it helps saturate the greens around the waterfall, and it reduces the amount of light entering your lens. And most importantly, you will need a tripod to stabilize your camera for the long exposures.

Although not required, a 2-stop ND filter can help you get a longer shutter speed too. This can be very helpful in brighter lit situations. A remote shutter release can help you get sharper images by preventing you from shaking the camera. And finally,a telephoto zoom lens ishelpful for zooming in on a specific part of the waterfall.

Step 2: Visit the waterfall at the right time.

Depending on the water source of the waterfall, it may look drastically different throughout the seasons. For example, waterfalls that are fed primarily by melted snow are often dried up or reduced to drizzles by the end of summer. These waterfalls are usually best in late spring or early summer. In early spring the water flow is usually a little too strong. So, as part of scouting out waterfalls, it’s a good idea to find out the source of the water and visit the fall when it’s running strong enough.

It’s also important to visit the waterfall when lighting conditions are ideal. Well balanced and diffused light is great for waterfallsphotographs because it helps bring out details in the shadows and minimize the contrast. The best diffused light occurs on overcast days but if you can’t wait for a cloudy day, then visit the waterfall at sunrise or sunset when the waterfalls is in shade with no hot sun spots. The worst time to photograph a waterfall is when half of it is in the shade and the other half is sunlit. Your camera won’t be able to handle that kind of contrast.

Step 3: Compose your image.

 Zoom in closer with a telephoto lens and capture one small area instead of trying to capture the entire falls and surrounding area. Include foreground elements (e.g. rocks, flowers, etc).

 Step 4: Adjust your polarizing filter.

Once you’ve found a good composition, then it’s time to carefully adjust your polarizing filter to maximize its effect. While looking through the viewfinder, rotate the filter and watch for the reflections to disappear. At the same time the greens will start to look a lot more saturated. You might want to rotate it completely a few times just so you’re sure that you’ve found the best position.

Step 5: Setup your camera for the shot.

In order to get that silky water effect you see in waterfall photographs, you’ll need a long shutter speed. So, here are a few recommended settings to start with. Use a small aperture. This is necessary for two reasons. It helps you get a longer shutter speed and it helps keep everything in sharp focus. I recommend starting with f/8 and then going smaller if that doesn’t give you a slow enough shutter. Use the lowest ISO speed on your camera. This also helps you get a longer shutter, but it has another benefit too.Lower ISO speeds will produce less noise and capture more dynamic range. Since you’ll be using a long shutter speed, your image will be much more sensitive to noise, so a low ISO will help prevent that noise.

Start with a shutter speed of 1 second or longer. When photographing waterfalls, finding the right shutter speed involves a lot of experimentation, but a speed of 1 second is usually a good place to start unless of course there is a very large volume of water flowing. In the water flow is very strong a shutter speed of 1/2 of a second may be slow enough. Be prepared to use shutter speeds ranging from 1 to 30 seconds.
Step 6: Take the shot and review your image.
 
After you take your shot, review it on your LCD, making sure to turn on the histogram. Look at the edges of the histogram to determine if you’re losing detail in the shadows or highlights.If you’re losing detail in shadows, then try a slower shutter speed and take another shot. If you’re losing detail in highlights, try a faster shutter speed. This step is a lot of trial and error. You may need to change camera settings between shots to get that perfect image you’re looking for. If your shutter speed is proving too fast to create that silky water look, and you’ve already tried using a smaller aperture, then you might want to try using a neutral density filter to help you get a slower shutter speed.

This tutorial is by no means a complete guide to photographing waterfalls, but it should get you started on the right track.

You’ll find more great information on how to improve your photography @ “Mastering Digital Photography Made Easy”

 

 

When you arrive at the waterfall, don’t setup your tripod right away! Walk around the waterfall and look through the viewfinder to explore different angles and camera positions. Here are few tips for composing your image. Shoot at an angle instead of directly in front of the falls.

 

 

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